We had a bus trip booked to London the next day. The train trips that day were soooo expensive, the bus was the only viable alternative (really did feel like hitching a ride). We got to the bus terminal well before time, picked up the tickets & had a bite to eat for brunch. But we boarded the bus far too late to get a seat together & so had to make do with sitting across the aisle from each other cause no one was prepared to move.
Then about an hour or two into the trip, we came to the border. It was snowing quite heavily but, nevertheless, we had to unload all our gear from the bus & line up to go through a customs check. Bec was not at all impressed by this particular process! I liked feeling the snow land on my face though.
Back on the bus, we tried to get a bit of sleep – almost impossible for me – despite a couple of American yobbos who insisted on being load so others could hear them.
Showing posts with label france. Show all posts
Showing posts with label france. Show all posts
Monday, February 15, 2010
31st Dec - NYE in Paris
I’d chosen Paris cause it was widely rated as the 2nd best place to be at New Years Eve in the world. Come NYE, Bec & I went to a nicer restaurant in St Germain & had a lovely very French meal – bring on the snails for me!! We then walked all the way back to hotel & were there by 10pm. Then couldn’t really be bothered going down to the Eiffel Tower for a look see at the fireworks, so stayed in & watched a movie. Not the planned event, but it was raining heavily outside, & standing in the rain in the middle of a drunk wild crowd neither of us fancied. So, a relaxing night in seemed a great way to celebrate the end of a wonderful year & introduction of an even better new one.
An Eerie Adventure - Paris Catacombs
I’d heard that an unusual place to check out were the catacombs. I’d missed out on visiting the ones in Rome, & got there too late in Paris to see these last time I was here. But we headed out there, a bit unsure of what to expect, & lined up for an hour to get through the entrance.
After the experience of going deep inside the pyramid a Giza in Egypt, I realised quickly while descending the steps down into the bowels of Paris that I had become somewhat claustrophobic. Interesting – never been claustrophobic before. After the descent, we came upon millions of human skulls & bones all arranged in patterns along the tunnel walls. Built in the 18th century after residents complained about the lack of hygiene from local cemeteries, the bones of over 6 million Parisians were moved here deep underground.
It’s a very eerie, creepy experience walking around down there in a semi-dark environment. No wonder there were so many more guys than girls there.
After the experience of going deep inside the pyramid a Giza in Egypt, I realised quickly while descending the steps down into the bowels of Paris that I had become somewhat claustrophobic. Interesting – never been claustrophobic before. After the descent, we came upon millions of human skulls & bones all arranged in patterns along the tunnel walls. Built in the 18th century after residents complained about the lack of hygiene from local cemeteries, the bones of over 6 million Parisians were moved here deep underground.
It’s a very eerie, creepy experience walking around down there in a semi-dark environment. No wonder there were so many more guys than girls there.
Living the Bohemian Life in Paris
Long sleep ins...late, late nights...writing, reading, writing...cafes, cafes, cafes. It must have been Bec’s influence cause we almost seemed a bit like locals, especially chilling out in local cafes here & there. We did lots of walking, mostly to St Germain to check out shopping opportunities, or cute little cafes. A very relaxed, artistic existence – just what we both wanted here.
One day we found a little cafe which served coffees from all over the world. Unfortunately we stumbled upon this late in the afternoon & because of the strength of the coffees, we were both bouncing off the walls till late into the eve. And that’s only with one each under our belts!
Another day, another little cafe located in St Germain that was just incredibly decorated in this old world style – so quaint - & served to-die-for hot chocolate & other chocolately tarts that filled us both to the brim. Had to roll out of there later.
One day we found a little cafe which served coffees from all over the world. Unfortunately we stumbled upon this late in the afternoon & because of the strength of the coffees, we were both bouncing off the walls till late into the eve. And that’s only with one each under our belts!
Another day, another little cafe located in St Germain that was just incredibly decorated in this old world style – so quaint - & served to-die-for hot chocolate & other chocolately tarts that filled us both to the brim. Had to roll out of there later.
28th Dec - Arrival in Sweet Paris, Again
It was quite a way by train to Paris via Zurich. We had time enough at Zurich train station to grab a quick bite to eat in a smoke-filled cafe before connecting on to Paris.
Arriving in Paris late at night, there was no other acceptable option than grabbing a taxi to our hotel. I wasn’t expecting the high quality of Austria, even though it was still as expensive. And I’m glad my expectations weren’t set too high. The hotel was ok – clean & fairly roomy in a quite central location. We unpacked for the 4 nights we would stay there, then crashed. My second time in Paris this trip – people might think I’m becoming Bohemian!
Arriving in Paris late at night, there was no other acceptable option than grabbing a taxi to our hotel. I wasn’t expecting the high quality of Austria, even though it was still as expensive. And I’m glad my expectations weren’t set too high. The hotel was ok – clean & fairly roomy in a quite central location. We unpacked for the 4 nights we would stay there, then crashed. My second time in Paris this trip – people might think I’m becoming Bohemian!
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
The French & Their Dogs
The passion & respect the French have for their dogs was a pleasure to behold. Well, at times it was. The dogs can go on trains, buses, in shops, you name it. Everywhere, it seems, except food shops. The owners have a strong aversion to picking up their dog’s poop. There is poop all over the pavements & you have to be careful to avoid it. I was in an SNCF office (train ticket booking) & a gay guy had his dog there. The dog was cute. It started to eat the furniture underneath the assistant’s desk & it wasn’t noticed for about 5 mins when the dog started grunting, unable to break the end off. Yes, the French love their dogs.
Chagall Museum & a Trip to Eze Village
I’d planned a hectic day & that’s exactly what it tuned out to be. First stop - coffee at an Italiano café on Place Messana - delicious! Then a 30 minute walk to the Chagall Museum which I then visited & ended up falling completely in love with Chagall’s work. My legs were already pretty tired so I allowed myself the advantage of bussing it back to Place Messana. I then walked around the old town, got completely lost in its tiny & welcoming alleyways, & finally found the church I’d been searching for - the Church of the Annunciation, otherwise known as Sainte-Rita. All that walking only to find that it was closed for another 45 mins. I really wanted to catch a ride up to the small village of Eze which several people had recommended to me. And that bus left at 2:30, so the church visit would have to wait.
Waiting for the bus was an Aussie guy from Sydney - Zak. We got to chatting & I found out that he was from Sydney & worked for RailCorp, my ex employer - what a small world it is! We ended up hanging out together for the rest of the day chatting about politics, RailCorp, life, etc as we strolled about. Eze was a quaint little old village perched on the cliff tops overlooking the coastline.
On arriving back to Nice, Zak & I scoffed down a gelato, then dined at the Mexican place I ate at the night before. He is a lovely guy & it was great to meet & chat with him.
Waiting for the bus was an Aussie guy from Sydney - Zak. We got to chatting & I found out that he was from Sydney & worked for RailCorp, my ex employer - what a small world it is! We ended up hanging out together for the rest of the day chatting about politics, RailCorp, life, etc as we strolled about. Eze was a quaint little old village perched on the cliff tops overlooking the coastline.
On arriving back to Nice, Zak & I scoffed down a gelato, then dined at the Mexican place I ate at the night before. He is a lovely guy & it was great to meet & chat with him.
Walking Tour of Nice
I’d booked in to a walking tour of the city which commenced at 9:30 this morning. Before heading out, I’d also needed to pack up my gear & change rooms - not my favourite thing to do. The tour was okay, but over its 3 hours it dragged on a bit. I must admit, I had lots going on in my mind so found it hard to concentrate. I met 2 Aussie girls on the tour, sisters travelling together in France & Italy - they were nice to chat with. After the tour, it was gelato time...
Coffee in France
Disappointed in my efforts to find good coffee in France so far, I was fortunate to stumble upon a little gem of a place in Dijon called ‘Café le Mayence’ that served quite a good petit crème café. Tours was terrible for coffee as was Avignon. But in Nice, there’s a strong Italian influence & several cafes serve café latte, particularly around Place Messena. Not quite as nice as a good latte in Sydney, but more than sufficient to satisfy ones coffee taste buds.
10th June 09 - Avignon to Nice
At midday I caught the TGV to Nice, taking over 3 hours to get there. I was fortunate enough to get a seat next to a woman called Laura from Ibiza in Spain, a like-minded individual heading towards Genoa in Italy to work on a yacht. We spoke for most of the trip about discrimination, religion, environmental sustainability, & Obama’s recent speech & health care policy - just a few small topics for the trip. The chat certainly made for a comfortable trip.
After getting a map & basic info from the Tourist Office at the train station, I decided that a 10 min walk with my bloody heavy backpack (I think I’m carrying around 18-20 kg all up) was not going to be on the agenda. So, instead of a taxi, I opted for the cheaper option - what they call a trambus (a tram). A lovely young student from Nice helped me buy my ticket then insisted on riding with me the two stops to my hop off point. We discussed his finance studies & his desire to visit Australia & live/work in the USA. A feel good conversation. I hopped off the trambus at Rue Massena & it didn’t take long to find the Hotel Regence located there.
After unpacking my bags to get my shorts & sandals out (it’s warm here), I ventured out for a wander feeling completely comfortable in this friendly city. As I strolled down the beachfront, I saw it - a tourist train, one of those little ones that take you to some of the pertinent city sites. Now, I’m old enough to know that looking like a dorky tourist is acceptable when you are almost completely anonymous, as I am in France. So I took the chance, purchased a ticket (7 euros) & jumped on board for the ride of my life (not!). We drove around for 45 mins which included a 20 min stop at a place overlooking the city. Thrilling!!!!!
After another long stroll, it was time for dinner - a delicious seafood risotto & wine - before heading back to the hotel for the eve.
After getting a map & basic info from the Tourist Office at the train station, I decided that a 10 min walk with my bloody heavy backpack (I think I’m carrying around 18-20 kg all up) was not going to be on the agenda. So, instead of a taxi, I opted for the cheaper option - what they call a trambus (a tram). A lovely young student from Nice helped me buy my ticket then insisted on riding with me the two stops to my hop off point. We discussed his finance studies & his desire to visit Australia & live/work in the USA. A feel good conversation. I hopped off the trambus at Rue Massena & it didn’t take long to find the Hotel Regence located there.
After unpacking my bags to get my shorts & sandals out (it’s warm here), I ventured out for a wander feeling completely comfortable in this friendly city. As I strolled down the beachfront, I saw it - a tourist train, one of those little ones that take you to some of the pertinent city sites. Now, I’m old enough to know that looking like a dorky tourist is acceptable when you are almost completely anonymous, as I am in France. So I took the chance, purchased a ticket (7 euros) & jumped on board for the ride of my life (not!). We drove around for 45 mins which included a 20 min stop at a place overlooking the city. Thrilling!!!!!
After another long stroll, it was time for dinner - a delicious seafood risotto & wine - before heading back to the hotel for the eve.
Touring the Provencale Countryside
This morning I went on a half-day tour of the local Provence region (cost 50 euros). There were only 3 people on the tour (myself & two women from HK), so the mini bus we rode in wasn’t at all full. The tour guide, James, had come out from London about 33 years ago & settled in a town outside Avignon. We had some great chats about the culture, wine, food, & everything else about France. On the tour we were meant to see the lavender fields, but unfortunately, the pretty fields were not yet in bloom. A type of lavender used for other purposes (antiseptic, arthritis, etc) was in bloom, so at least we saw one field of those. But the trips around the villages were cute.
Our first village, Gordes, is known for building no-window houses with dry stone (no cement between). Still to this day, some of the old houses still stand with locals not being allowed to tear them down, only allowed to build beside them in the same type of style. We didn’t stop in the village, but drove through & had a look at examples of the old houses (Bories) & walls.
We stopped at the second village, Lacoste, for about 25 mins - enough time to browse through the local market & have a croissant. The village was sprawling with wealthy locals out to buy their cheese, salamis & olives for the week.
The other notable village, in which we strolled for an hour was Roussillon. The Romans were first to mine the ochre in the hills used as dyes & colourings. The hills are a red earth colour, similar to the Australia outback earth, & stand out boldly against the green surrounds. The town itself was gorgeous, little laneways weaving up toward the peak of the town, with small shops tucked away for tourists. The coffee I had - not so good.
Our first village, Gordes, is known for building no-window houses with dry stone (no cement between). Still to this day, some of the old houses still stand with locals not being allowed to tear them down, only allowed to build beside them in the same type of style. We didn’t stop in the village, but drove through & had a look at examples of the old houses (Bories) & walls.
We stopped at the second village, Lacoste, for about 25 mins - enough time to browse through the local market & have a croissant. The village was sprawling with wealthy locals out to buy their cheese, salamis & olives for the week.
The other notable village, in which we strolled for an hour was Roussillon. The Romans were first to mine the ochre in the hills used as dyes & colourings. The hills are a red earth colour, similar to the Australia outback earth, & stand out boldly against the green surrounds. The town itself was gorgeous, little laneways weaving up toward the peak of the town, with small shops tucked away for tourists. The coffee I had - not so good.
Around Avignon
After visiting the Pope’s Palace, I searched for a nice little nook with a café & found one. I met a lovely retired couple there from South of England (Chris & Alan) & we had a good old chat.
After lunch, I wandered down to the Pont Saint Benezet, a bridge (& chapels) built during the 12th century which had finally succumbed to one too many floods & so only half the bridge now remains. I then headed up to the Petit Palais (Small Palace) Museum which houses a great collection of Italian & Provencal paintings, as well as a fine collection of sculptures.
After lunch, I wandered down to the Pont Saint Benezet, a bridge (& chapels) built during the 12th century which had finally succumbed to one too many floods & so only half the bridge now remains. I then headed up to the Petit Palais (Small Palace) Museum which houses a great collection of Italian & Provencal paintings, as well as a fine collection of sculptures.
Walking Tour of Avignon
Determined to be an insatiable tourist on my 2nd day in Avignon, I was up & out of my studio quite early to first grab some breakfast, then book in for the 10am Avignon guided tour (17 euros) organised by the local tourism office. I found an okay coffee - a rather strange tasting cappuccino that seemed to have either condensed cream or some other sweet cream-like substance added. But with that & a croissant under my belt (bulging belly), I eagerly awaited the guided tour.
The tour was only meant to go for 2 hours, but actually went for 3. The guide was excellent, speaking English fluently, she was able to articulate all the little historical facts we love to hear about. We went past old roman walls, through churches/cathedrals, finally ending up at the Pope’s Palace, which has a remarkable history.
The tour was only meant to go for 2 hours, but actually went for 3. The guide was excellent, speaking English fluently, she was able to articulate all the little historical facts we love to hear about. We went past old roman walls, through churches/cathedrals, finally ending up at the Pope’s Palace, which has a remarkable history.
Seemingly, back in the 1300’s the papal residence was transferred from Rome to Avignon & remained here through a number of Popes before the Catholic Church finally said they wanted the pope to come back to Italy. So for a while (don’t ask me about dates or years or particulars please), there were 2 popes - one in Rome, one in Avignon - because the Avignon pope wouldn’t abdicate - he liked poping far too much. Lots of restoration work has been completed on the Pope’s Palace, but the weird thing is, their restoration doesn’t mean recreating it to look how it use to look, but to look very different - what’s the point? Anyway, still a great place to visit.
7th June 09 - Arrival in Avignon
Arrived in Avignon & managed to find ‘La Madeleine’ apartments quite easily after given some sturdy directions from the bus driver. But when I entered the studio I’d rented, my expectations were definitely not met - it was not at all like the pretty pictures on the website. Except the courtyard, which was lovely with vines & mulberry trees blooming all over.
I partly unpacked, then headed into town to find out what there is to do in this area. Once loaded with all the knowledge I required, I found a typical tourist restaurant to dine at, & was incredibly disappointed with the fare presented. The chips were only war, verging on cold & the mussels were tasteless. I then wandered around the village, but nothing much was opened because it was Sunday. So then I came back to the studio & did quite a bit of writing. To say I wasn’t at all impressed with Avignon on my first day is an understatement.
I partly unpacked, then headed into town to find out what there is to do in this area. Once loaded with all the knowledge I required, I found a typical tourist restaurant to dine at, & was incredibly disappointed with the fare presented. The chips were only war, verging on cold & the mussels were tasteless. I then wandered around the village, but nothing much was opened because it was Sunday. So then I came back to the studio & did quite a bit of writing. To say I wasn’t at all impressed with Avignon on my first day is an understatement.
Around Dijon
I loved walking the streets of Dijon. Having decided that the tours in this region were far too expensive, I spent much of my 3 days there wandering the old streets. The churches were great - beautiful architecture with a serene atmosphere. There were several markets, both undercover & open, selling food, spices & wares. I accidentally wandered into a chocolate shop & somehow managed to walk out with a selection of delicious hand made chocolates which I devoured over the next two days. There’s a nifty free bus that takes you right round the city area & you can jump on/off at any time. My Ibis Hotel was right over the other side of the station & took a good 20 mins to walk back to - not so pleasant at night.
Historical Walking Tour of Dijon
At the Tourist Office I booked in for a historical walking tour of the city starting at 5pm for 2 hours duration. There were a group of mixed nationalities on the tour, but the guide spoke only French & English, & her English was a challenge for her but we prompted her along. The tour was excellent, taking in the major sites & getting some historical background of the city. I met a tourist guide from Prague (originally from Germany) on the tour & we later had dinner together. At this point in time, it was great to have an English conversation as I hadn’t really had a good one for 3-4 days. The company, conversation, food & wine made for a wonderful evening.
4th June 09 - Dijon
After arriving & settling into the Ibis Hotel just a small walk from the train station, I ventured out to the Tourist Information centre to find out about this town. I was especially interested in the wine tours available in the surrounding area as I’d heard from a couple of people that the vineyards here are wonderful. I soon found out that the minimum cost for a 3-4 hour vineyard tour was 75 Euro (AUD150) & even then you were only visiting one or two vineyards to taste perhaps 6 wines. So I decided against the wine tours & bought some wine from the supermarket instead. To check out the countryside, you really do need a car for this area.
Monday, June 15, 2009
Tours - Loire Valley
Initially I was going to stay here for 7 nights. Then after seeing my hotel I changed my mind & spent a very long 5 days here. I did 3 trips out to the Chateaux (castles) & saw 7 of them within the area. Some of them are simply breathtaking in their magnificence. My favourite was definitely Chenenceau.
Apart from castles, there's not a lot to do around Tours, especially if you don't have a car (can't go wine tasting). But the old town is quite nice to walk around. And the cheese...to die for. The people, however, are quite close-minded & can tend to be arrogant, especially if you don't speak French. If I had my time over again, I'd speak only 2 nights here.
Arche de Triomphe
I got out here on my last day in Paris & there was some type of war ceremony happening at the time with a band & decorated soldiers holding flags in remembrance. The details on the monument were beautiful, but it was not as spectacular as I’d expected. There were people everywhere & it was difficult to move around, so maybe this stifled my opportunity for further discovery & appreciation.
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