I got to the station in plenty of time to catch the 6:53am train. It was an old train with no compartments & announcements that were only in Polish/Czech. I wondered why it was a seven hour ride when it didn’t seem that far on the map. Now on the train, I can see why - it stops at a hell of a lot of stations, especially those in Poland. The countryside going by is beautiful. But there are lots of ugly industrial centres along the way also, particularly on the Polish side.
Strangely, as soon as we hit the Czech side, everything seemed to speed up.
Showing posts with label poland. Show all posts
Showing posts with label poland. Show all posts
Friday, August 7, 2009
Around Krakow - Lovely Old City
For centuries Krakow had been the capital of Poland, but no longer. Luckily, the city hadn’t been destroyed by the Nazis as Warsaw had been, so many of the beautiful old buildings were still more-or-less in their original form. The people here in Krakow seem friendlier & not as unhappy as they do in Warsaw. Still, walking through the streets along broken pavements & past old dilapidated houses, you are keenly aware how much work needs to go into this country to improve conditions. But then again, that’s where a lot of its character lies.
I did one of those ‘free’ history walks, after remembering how great the one in Berlin had been. But this was a different company, newly started it seemed, run by a couple of students whose history & humour was largely targeted at young people out to have fun. It went to just over 4 hours, & I didn’t give a good tip. I did meet a woman from New York called Yana & we had a nice chat along the way. She was in Krakow with her parents travelling over the US summer season.
The tour ended in the Jewish Ghetto. The movie, ‘Schindler’s List’, was based & filmed here. Many of the streets were recognisable from the movie. This is the happening place to be in Krakow - most of the pubs & clubs are here & so attract a young crowd each day. Not many Jews live here now - only 200. I find it interesting that, even though Jews have lived in Poland since the 15th century, they are still not seen as Polish, but as a minority group. Why is this? No wonder the Jewish people felt they needed a home of their own - no one would ever let them completely assimilate.
I did one of those ‘free’ history walks, after remembering how great the one in Berlin had been. But this was a different company, newly started it seemed, run by a couple of students whose history & humour was largely targeted at young people out to have fun. It went to just over 4 hours, & I didn’t give a good tip. I did meet a woman from New York called Yana & we had a nice chat along the way. She was in Krakow with her parents travelling over the US summer season.
The tour ended in the Jewish Ghetto. The movie, ‘Schindler’s List’, was based & filmed here. Many of the streets were recognisable from the movie. This is the happening place to be in Krakow - most of the pubs & clubs are here & so attract a young crowd each day. Not many Jews live here now - only 200. I find it interesting that, even though Jews have lived in Poland since the 15th century, they are still not seen as Polish, but as a minority group. Why is this? No wonder the Jewish people felt they needed a home of their own - no one would ever let them completely assimilate.
Auschwitz-Birkenau Concentration Camps
I only had 2 nights in Krakow, so had to get cracking with sightseeing. Although I don’t usually opt for organised tours, I did book in for one to Auschwitz to save from stuffing around with how to get out there & back. The tour was advertised as going for 6 hours including 3 ½ hours at the camps. While not a lot of time to see & take in everything, I thought it would be enough. However, we left at 3pm & the drive out there took 1 ¼ hours, & we ended up only getting 1 ¾ hours at Auschwitz & ½ hour at Birkenau. The guide there was great though. While we only got to see about a third of all the Museum, she revealed a lot about the history & was extremely respectful in doing so.
The feeling of being in a place where 1.1 million people were murdered was quite intimidating. I could myself going into self-protect mode to block out some of the negativity of the place. But, of course, I still got overwhelmed by the monstrosities committed there - the calculated & systemic annihilation of all these people as part of a bigger plan for complete genocide. How people were treated not as people but as insects to be exterminated. Their personal items collected & valuables separated for recycling. Even human hair was used to make cloth. People placed overnight in standing pens, four at a time, so they couldn’t sit down, then forced to work through the next day. Children sentenced to crimes against the state & executed - all innocent.
The feeling of being in a place where 1.1 million people were murdered was quite intimidating. I could myself going into self-protect mode to block out some of the negativity of the place. But, of course, I still got overwhelmed by the monstrosities committed there - the calculated & systemic annihilation of all these people as part of a bigger plan for complete genocide. How people were treated not as people but as insects to be exterminated. Their personal items collected & valuables separated for recycling. Even human hair was used to make cloth. People placed overnight in standing pens, four at a time, so they couldn’t sit down, then forced to work through the next day. Children sentenced to crimes against the state & executed - all innocent.
Once a survivor from Birkenau on reviewing photos taken of the site had said "there was no grass here, if there had been some, we would have eaten it".
I am convinced that every person needs to visit one of these places to understand what intolerance can ultimately lead to. The seed of intolerance that has the potential to lead to hatred lies within each of us. But we just don’t learn from the past - or maybe some of us just don’t want to. A sign on one of the doors, a quote by George Santana, reads "the one who does not remember history is bound to live through it again".
I am convinced that every person needs to visit one of these places to understand what intolerance can ultimately lead to. The seed of intolerance that has the potential to lead to hatred lies within each of us. But we just don’t learn from the past - or maybe some of us just don’t want to. A sign on one of the doors, a quote by George Santana, reads "the one who does not remember history is bound to live through it again".
Warsaw to Krakow
I was excited to be heading off to Krakow as I’d heard many good things about the city. Up bright & early, I had my last fun little ride on the Westin lift, then walked about 15 mins to the train station. Strange, even though there is one platform, ‘Peron 4’ for example, there are two sides to the platform & you can’t really tell which side your train will be arriving. So I asked a couple of locals, then just followed the crowd. And thankfully I managed to get on the right train.
The train trip was smooth sailing & time when by really quickly as I chatted the whole time with a Finnish guy called Peter who happened to be married to an Australian woman & who now lived in Prague. He was a travel photographer & had some fascinating insights into the places he’d been to, especially their peoples. So there were lots of things to discuss.
When I got off the train, I eventually found the tourist info centre from where I got directions to my hostel, The Secret Garden. It was based close to the ‘Jewish Ghetto’, so I jumped on a tram & rode the 5 stops south. I had a private room - no more dorms (twice is enough) - so when I got there I could spread out a bit before heading on my first tour.
The train trip was smooth sailing & time when by really quickly as I chatted the whole time with a Finnish guy called Peter who happened to be married to an Australian woman & who now lived in Prague. He was a travel photographer & had some fascinating insights into the places he’d been to, especially their peoples. So there were lots of things to discuss.
When I got off the train, I eventually found the tourist info centre from where I got directions to my hostel, The Secret Garden. It was based close to the ‘Jewish Ghetto’, so I jumped on a tram & rode the 5 stops south. I had a private room - no more dorms (twice is enough) - so when I got there I could spread out a bit before heading on my first tour.
Chill Out Afternoon
Sometimes I just need some chill out time - travelling can be really tiring. After visiting the Warsaw Uprising Museum this morning, struggling through all the Poles visiting on their anniversary day, I needed a break. And what better place to have a break than in my comfy Westin room?
A movie - Harry Potter - watched from bed in the afternoon. Some writing later on. Popped out for dinner downstairs. Then back to my room to pack my backpack for an early departure tomorrow. And finally, a lavender bath to complete the chill out day. Lovely!!!!!
A movie - Harry Potter - watched from bed in the afternoon. Some writing later on. Popped out for dinner downstairs. Then back to my room to pack my backpack for an early departure tomorrow. And finally, a lavender bath to complete the chill out day. Lovely!!!!!
August 1st - Warsaw Uprising Anniversary
Well, I had chosen the most special (& busy) day of the year to visit the Warsaw Uprising Museum - the Uprising anniversary. The museum was packed with Polish people & it was a challenge to get to see any of the exhibits.
One which sticks in my mind was video footage of the Jewish people of the ghetto that had to collect dead bodies from their neighbourhood, through the emaciated bodies on a cart, then transport them to a mass grave where they then had to shuttle the bodies down a ramp. Instant tears - imagine how it would feel to do that work? There were also a couple of Rabbis looking on at the mass grave - I cannot imagine how much distress they must have been going through.
One which sticks in my mind was video footage of the Jewish people of the ghetto that had to collect dead bodies from their neighbourhood, through the emaciated bodies on a cart, then transport them to a mass grave where they then had to shuttle the bodies down a ramp. Instant tears - imagine how it would feel to do that work? There were also a couple of Rabbis looking on at the mass grave - I cannot imagine how much distress they must have been going through.
Out & About in Warsaw
After the rather long walk from my hotel to the Old Town, I did end up seeing a few things.
Firstly, the Palace, which was charming but I think a bit devoid of character. Mind you it had been rebuilt after the Nazis burnt it down. In fact, all of the Old Town had to be reconstructed.
And strolling around the old town was quite pleasant really. Met a young couple & we had a jolly good chat for a couple of hours after the bus just decided not to show up anymore & I was stumped on how to get back to the hotel.
Warsaw - A Different Kind of City
I must say, though very quietly, that I don't like Warsaw. The people here seem unhappy. Not a lot of smiling goes on & nearly all have a sad or angry look on their faces. I perceive more than a small trace of hopelessness left over from times gone by.
Warsaw was almost completely destroyed by Hitler in WW2. His intention was to leave not one building left standing after the Warsaw Uprising. He just about achieved his objective. Warsaw had to be rebuilt from scratch. Even the buildings in the ‘old town’ are fairly new. The city is not a pretty place. It feels a bit soulless.
I toured the palace which has be rebuilt after being burned down & raided by the Nazis. Several of the churches I wandered in to had tributes & memorials to war heroes & victims plastered over their walls. It feels like the city is still mourning its losses. And, after what they have been through here, it’s completely understandable.
Warsaw was almost completely destroyed by Hitler in WW2. His intention was to leave not one building left standing after the Warsaw Uprising. He just about achieved his objective. Warsaw had to be rebuilt from scratch. Even the buildings in the ‘old town’ are fairly new. The city is not a pretty place. It feels a bit soulless.
I toured the palace which has be rebuilt after being burned down & raided by the Nazis. Several of the churches I wandered in to had tributes & memorials to war heroes & victims plastered over their walls. It feels like the city is still mourning its losses. And, after what they have been through here, it’s completely understandable.
Lost in Warsaw
I got completely lost on my first full day in Warsaw. After having walked for over an hour in (what I thought was) the general direction of the Old Town, I asked someone where I actually was on the map. I had gone in the opposite direction altogether, & had to hop on the Metro & ride 3 stops to get back on track. A big oops!!
Traditional Polish Food
The Folk Gospoda restaurant was located only 5 mins away from the hotel & was recommended to me by the hotel staff for traditional Polish food. After the short walk, I was warmly welcomed at the restaurant & was pleasantly surprised that a Polish folk band was playing away there.
I ordered the pork rollup with potato dumplings & onion sauce. A complimentary dish - pork lard - was brought out. Interesting flavour - very heavy & fatty. Then the main meal. There was no way I could have finished the full dish, it was far too filling & I only managed to eat just over half of what was presented. I had a nice Zywiec Porters beer (dark) to wash it all down.
But in the middle of the night, my stomach rebelled. I spent a very uncomfortable few hours hoping to throw up to rid myself of this awful feeling, but unable to. I didn’t go back there. The next day was spent being gentle on my digestive system, careful not to eat any fatty Polish food again.
I ordered the pork rollup with potato dumplings & onion sauce. A complimentary dish - pork lard - was brought out. Interesting flavour - very heavy & fatty. Then the main meal. There was no way I could have finished the full dish, it was far too filling & I only managed to eat just over half of what was presented. I had a nice Zywiec Porters beer (dark) to wash it all down.
But in the middle of the night, my stomach rebelled. I spent a very uncomfortable few hours hoping to throw up to rid myself of this awful feeling, but unable to. I didn’t go back there. The next day was spent being gentle on my digestive system, careful not to eat any fatty Polish food again.
A Backpacker at the Westin!!!!!
After much deliberation, I’d decided to treat myself to staying at the 5-star Westin (darling!!!) as it only cost 50 euros per night (bargain), as much as you would pay for a 2 or 3-star in Western Europe.
The guy at the front desk first thought that my rate (I booked on Booking.com) was only a part payment before realising it was just a bloody good deal. He must have liked me (he wanted to go to Australia to live) & he gave me an upgrade. I was now an official ‘preferred guest’! I told him I loved him - this was safe cause he was gay.
And gee, the cost was certainly worth it! The ‘Heavenly Bed’ (check my bliss photo) was just that, & I found myself struggling more than usual getting out of bed in the morning. And I had a bath for the first time in a few months. So I bought some bath salts to treat myself - two nights in a row. The view from the 16th floor over Warsaw was amazing. And even the lift with its open glass sides gave me a thrill each time I rode in it - I let out a “weeeeee” each time. I did forego the 120PLN breakfast (about $60 AUD) & bought some fruit for myself instead.
But overall, as a typical comfort loving Taurean, I loved it!!!
The guy at the front desk first thought that my rate (I booked on Booking.com) was only a part payment before realising it was just a bloody good deal. He must have liked me (he wanted to go to Australia to live) & he gave me an upgrade. I was now an official ‘preferred guest’! I told him I loved him - this was safe cause he was gay.
And gee, the cost was certainly worth it! The ‘Heavenly Bed’ (check my bliss photo) was just that, & I found myself struggling more than usual getting out of bed in the morning. And I had a bath for the first time in a few months. So I bought some bath salts to treat myself - two nights in a row. The view from the 16th floor over Warsaw was amazing. And even the lift with its open glass sides gave me a thrill each time I rode in it - I let out a “weeeeee” each time. I did forego the 120PLN breakfast (about $60 AUD) & bought some fruit for myself instead.
But overall, as a typical comfort loving Taurean, I loved it!!!
Berlin to Warsaw
Another day, another train trip. This one was a six hour ride to Central Station in Warsaw, leaving at 12:29pm. There was a compartment of 6 people - a German (Peter), an English couple, a young Israeli woman, two Polish men, & me.
Peter was a railway engineer & we chatted consistently for over 3 hours until his stop arrived & he left. I had a bit of a challenging chat with the Israeli woman about the Israel/Palestinian conflict. I wanted to know why the Jewish people didn’t seem to appreciate that the Palestinian people also needed a homeland. That the constant conflict was extremely detrimental to the children who had only ever known conflict & war. She just said it was complicated & that no one could work out an answer. I felt that was a bit of a cop out, like she felt that nothing could be done so why try. It was a disappointing, but interesting, result.
Peter was a railway engineer & we chatted consistently for over 3 hours until his stop arrived & he left. I had a bit of a challenging chat with the Israeli woman about the Israel/Palestinian conflict. I wanted to know why the Jewish people didn’t seem to appreciate that the Palestinian people also needed a homeland. That the constant conflict was extremely detrimental to the children who had only ever known conflict & war. She just said it was complicated & that no one could work out an answer. I felt that was a bit of a cop out, like she felt that nothing could be done so why try. It was a disappointing, but interesting, result.
I also located a wonderful warning sign on the train - see photo.
The train arrived at 6:20pm & after consulting with a few locals that could speak a bit of English, I finally found the direction of my hotel. A 25-min walk later, I arrived there.
The train arrived at 6:20pm & after consulting with a few locals that could speak a bit of English, I finally found the direction of my hotel. A 25-min walk later, I arrived there.
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