At the train station I met a nice young woman from London called Samantha who was also heading to Rome on her extensive travels. The regional train cost only 16 Euros compared with the 45 Euros being asked for the high-speed train. But of course it took twice as long to get there (about 3½ hours).
My hotel (Novecento) was a couple of Metro stops away so it took about 15 mins to get there all up. The room is lovely & it's quiet (hard to get in Rome). Only 1o mins from the Colosseum, I hope it will be a pleasant place to stay.
Monday, June 22, 2009
Favourite Eats in Florence
A few recommended restaurants/trattorias/cafes which I tried out were:
Trattoria Marione - in a street near Pallazzo S. Maria Novella
Il Contadino on via Palazzo - great food at great prices (a local fav)
Café Curtatone (best Café lattes) on via Curtatone
And a restaurant right next door to the Hotel Elite on via Della Scala.
Trattoria Marione - in a street near Pallazzo S. Maria Novella
Il Contadino on via Palazzo - great food at great prices (a local fav)
Café Curtatone (best Café lattes) on via Curtatone
And a restaurant right next door to the Hotel Elite on via Della Scala.
An Extended Stay in Florence
I extended my stay in Florence from an initial 2 nights to 4 nights cause I just loved it. But the only availability at the Helvetia was in a more expensive room. So I found another place - Hotel Duilio run by a lovely man called Vincenzo which was based by the river next to the American Consulate, surrounded by police so it was really safe. And, as an added bonus, I had the Virgin Mother with baby Jesus above my bed to protect & guide me. What more could I ask for?
The rest of my time in Florence was spent eating & wandering through the cobblestone streets & churches. The last full day, Anne & I took a 13 bus up to Piazza Michelangelo to see the view over the city - lovely. The walk back to the centre was equally as nice, as was my dinner that night - wild boar with porcini mushrooms & polenta - a local speciality. Florence is definitely one of my favourite places on the trip so far & I’d love to come back here. I decided not to visit either Siena or Orvieto in the countryside & so they are a must for my next trip.
The rest of my time in Florence was spent eating & wandering through the cobblestone streets & churches. The last full day, Anne & I took a 13 bus up to Piazza Michelangelo to see the view over the city - lovely. The walk back to the centre was equally as nice, as was my dinner that night - wild boar with porcini mushrooms & polenta - a local speciality. Florence is definitely one of my favourite places on the trip so far & I’d love to come back here. I decided not to visit either Siena or Orvieto in the countryside & so they are a must for my next trip.
The Uffizi Galleria - Florence
My second day in Florence I planned on getting up early to beat the long queues at the Uffizi Gallery (Galleria Degli Uffizi) which has the largest collection of Renaissance art in Italy. But I found it hard to get out of bed & didn’t end up getting there until 9:30, & expected a huge line up. But there wasn’t one, & I walked straight in without having to wait at all. I spent 4 hours at the Uffizi that day. So much to take in by an incredible range of legendary artists. Long halls lined with numerous statues. Room after room filled with paintings & more statues. I was enthralled by it all. It’s a must see.
And outside the gallery was a piazza with a variety of statues where people gathered for a chat. It all adds to the wonderful ambience of Florence.
18th June - First Day in Florence
For Florence, I’d booked at the Hotel Helvetia cause it was cheap. But the cheap room wasn't available (shame about that) so they assigned me to a room (a nice double with bathroom) in the Hotel Elite (a Pensione) about 100 metres down the road. Nadia at the Hotel Elite was just great - very friendly & really informative. It was quiet & had heaps of character.
I did my orientation walk around the city that afternoon, visiting the Duomo cathedral & the Galleria Dell Accademia. The Duomo (Cathedral di S. Maria del Fiore) is one of the biggest cathedrals in Europe, but I didn’t think it was that impressive, apart from its size. At the Galleria Dell Accademia, I saw the statue, David, by Michelangelo - truly a masterpiece. It was much larger (5 m) than I expected & I was in awe of its beauty & I viewed it from many angles for at least an hour.
At dinner on the first night, I met a young woman called Anne from Germany who was sitting at the next table by herself. We started up a lengthy conversation & at the end said we’d catch up again the next day, which we did. I spent quite a bit of time with her while I was in Florence, staying up late in the evening chatting away. It was lovely to have connected so well with someone new on my trip.
At dinner on the first night, I met a young woman called Anne from Germany who was sitting at the next table by herself. We started up a lengthy conversation & at the end said we’d catch up again the next day, which we did. I spent quite a bit of time with her while I was in Florence, staying up late in the evening chatting away. It was lovely to have connected so well with someone new on my trip.
18th June - Genoa to Florence
The 3-hour train trip had one change of trains at Pisa. The first part of this trip I rode 1st class, & 2nd from Pisa to Florence. Thankfully, it was a faster train than previous Italian train trips, & the little girl in the cabin was prancing around to provide entertainment for the trip. I sat next to an Italian policeman call Paul who remembered me from when I asked him for directions when I’d initially landed in Genoa. So we had a good chat until he finally fell asleep nearly all the way to Pisa.
I saw the Leaning Tower of Pisa from the train, so didn’t feel as if I needed to come back out here to see it again close up. In Pisa I had a connection that I needed to make to get to Florence - only had to wait about 25 mins.
I've realised that the regional trains are a much cheaper option than their fast competitors if you have the extra time to spare. Which, funnily enough, I do.
I saw the Leaning Tower of Pisa from the train, so didn’t feel as if I needed to come back out here to see it again close up. In Pisa I had a connection that I needed to make to get to Florence - only had to wait about 25 mins.
I've realised that the regional trains are a much cheaper option than their fast competitors if you have the extra time to spare. Which, funnily enough, I do.
Italians also love their dogs
So it’s not just the French who have a passion for their canine loved ones. On the train from Cinque Terre to Genova yesterday, an elderly couple came on board with their pooch. There were 3 seats available around me - one for the man, one for the woman, one for the dog. They placed a small towel on the seat & the dog jumped up & settled down for the ride. I had to laugh. But the Italians are infinitely better at picking up their dog's poop - something perhaps way too low an act for the French.
Genova or Genoa?
I was confused - why is the town sometimes called Genoa & at other times called Genova. So I asked the hotel receptionist who explained that the English call it Genoa & the Italians call it Genova. This is like many towns & cities in Italy - eg; Florence is called Firenze. This confused the hell out of me when trying to work out my itinerary on a map. But you kinda get use to it.
The Cinque Terre (5 Lands)
The reason for me coming to Genoa initially was to walk the Cinque Terre (meaning - 5 lands) - a 12 km trail that links 5 small UNESCO protected towns along the coastline south of Genoa. What I didn’t realise was that the train ride (5,80 Euros) to Romaggiore (the 5th town) was a 2 hour train ride stopping at nearly every station along the way - & that was the quick train.
When I arrived at Romaggiore, I wasn’t sure whether I was going to walk the full trail after reading online that it was challenging. But the Cinque Terre Pass (5 Euros) gave you entry to walk any path within the area, & I figured I could always hop on a train if I was feeling completely exhausted.
The walk from Romaggiore to Manarola was very easy - a 15 min nice paved walkway that still allowed plenty of time to take photos. From Manarola to Corniglia took 45 mins. It was an uneven path, but still quite easy, even though sturdier shoes were required. From Corniglia to Vernazza the path got a lot more difficult & there were far fewer people on the last two legs of this journey. I found this the most challenging part of the walk with lots of uneven climbing up & down, although the views were certainly a reward for the effort. Vernazza was a beautiful town with great little eating alcoves & a wonderful sheltered cove for swimming (I forgot to bring my swimmers). I sustained my energy with a pesto pizza (local speciality) & headed off again soon afterwards.
At the beginning of the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso, there was an outlook back over Vernazzo which was truly spectacular. This part of the trail had parts that were very narrow with steep drops off to the side here & there. I met a couple of Aussie women (Jill & Glenda) here & we had a lovely chat before I continued on. Monterosso was the largest town of Cinque Terre & was a beach resort with sun umbrellas lining the beach & bars dotted along the village. For completing the walk, I treated myself to a gelato & a cold drink, then hopped on another slow train to Genoa.
When I arrived at Romaggiore, I wasn’t sure whether I was going to walk the full trail after reading online that it was challenging. But the Cinque Terre Pass (5 Euros) gave you entry to walk any path within the area, & I figured I could always hop on a train if I was feeling completely exhausted.
The walk from Romaggiore to Manarola was very easy - a 15 min nice paved walkway that still allowed plenty of time to take photos. From Manarola to Corniglia took 45 mins. It was an uneven path, but still quite easy, even though sturdier shoes were required. From Corniglia to Vernazza the path got a lot more difficult & there were far fewer people on the last two legs of this journey. I found this the most challenging part of the walk with lots of uneven climbing up & down, although the views were certainly a reward for the effort. Vernazza was a beautiful town with great little eating alcoves & a wonderful sheltered cove for swimming (I forgot to bring my swimmers). I sustained my energy with a pesto pizza (local speciality) & headed off again soon afterwards.
At the beginning of the trail from Vernazza to Monterosso, there was an outlook back over Vernazzo which was truly spectacular. This part of the trail had parts that were very narrow with steep drops off to the side here & there. I met a couple of Aussie women (Jill & Glenda) here & we had a lovely chat before I continued on. Monterosso was the largest town of Cinque Terre & was a beach resort with sun umbrellas lining the beach & bars dotted along the village. For completing the walk, I treated myself to a gelato & a cold drink, then hopped on another slow train to Genoa.
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Genova - What a Surprise!
I hadn’t read good reports about Genova online. Much of what was said stated that it didn’t cater to tourists & that it was quite an industrial shady town. I chose Genoa as a not-too-far point to visit Cinque Terre, as La Spezia was closer but much more expensive. I booked into the Hotel Helvetia for 2 nights, a budget hotel which was cheap & cheerful. The receptionist was very helpful in explaining recommended walking routes & places to eat nearby. Genova is Italy’s largest port in addition to being a cultural centre. The walk along Garibaldi was incredible with ‘rolli’ (private residences) along each side previously owned by Genoese nobles & decorated in Renaissance architecture. The Cattedrale di San Lorenzo is a masterpiece of Gothic art & holds the ‘Sacro Catino’ said by some to be the Holy Grail. And, as I made my way back to the Hotel, I found a gelateria in an alleyway. Oh, my God! Heaven in an ice cream!!!
16th June 09 - Nice to Genova, Italy
At 10am, I caught the slowest train to Genova in Italy. It was an intercity train, which usually run faster than the slower regional ones. However, because it is summer & everyone is by the seaside, the train takes that much longer. But what a pleasure it was to be sharing the 6-seat cabin with the people I did. Two people especially, Jean (from Colorado) & Dario (from Milano) were a treat & we had some great laughs together which made the trip seem a lot quicker than it was. It trip itself took just over 3 hours & took us in to Genova Piazza Principale station - the main station in Genova.
The French & Their Dogs
The passion & respect the French have for their dogs was a pleasure to behold. Well, at times it was. The dogs can go on trains, buses, in shops, you name it. Everywhere, it seems, except food shops. The owners have a strong aversion to picking up their dog’s poop. There is poop all over the pavements & you have to be careful to avoid it. I was in an SNCF office (train ticket booking) & a gay guy had his dog there. The dog was cute. It started to eat the furniture underneath the assistant’s desk & it wasn’t noticed for about 5 mins when the dog started grunting, unable to break the end off. Yes, the French love their dogs.
Chagall Museum & a Trip to Eze Village
I’d planned a hectic day & that’s exactly what it tuned out to be. First stop - coffee at an Italiano café on Place Messana - delicious! Then a 30 minute walk to the Chagall Museum which I then visited & ended up falling completely in love with Chagall’s work. My legs were already pretty tired so I allowed myself the advantage of bussing it back to Place Messana. I then walked around the old town, got completely lost in its tiny & welcoming alleyways, & finally found the church I’d been searching for - the Church of the Annunciation, otherwise known as Sainte-Rita. All that walking only to find that it was closed for another 45 mins. I really wanted to catch a ride up to the small village of Eze which several people had recommended to me. And that bus left at 2:30, so the church visit would have to wait.
Waiting for the bus was an Aussie guy from Sydney - Zak. We got to chatting & I found out that he was from Sydney & worked for RailCorp, my ex employer - what a small world it is! We ended up hanging out together for the rest of the day chatting about politics, RailCorp, life, etc as we strolled about. Eze was a quaint little old village perched on the cliff tops overlooking the coastline.
On arriving back to Nice, Zak & I scoffed down a gelato, then dined at the Mexican place I ate at the night before. He is a lovely guy & it was great to meet & chat with him.
Waiting for the bus was an Aussie guy from Sydney - Zak. We got to chatting & I found out that he was from Sydney & worked for RailCorp, my ex employer - what a small world it is! We ended up hanging out together for the rest of the day chatting about politics, RailCorp, life, etc as we strolled about. Eze was a quaint little old village perched on the cliff tops overlooking the coastline.
On arriving back to Nice, Zak & I scoffed down a gelato, then dined at the Mexican place I ate at the night before. He is a lovely guy & it was great to meet & chat with him.
Walking Tour of Nice
I’d booked in to a walking tour of the city which commenced at 9:30 this morning. Before heading out, I’d also needed to pack up my gear & change rooms - not my favourite thing to do. The tour was okay, but over its 3 hours it dragged on a bit. I must admit, I had lots going on in my mind so found it hard to concentrate. I met 2 Aussie girls on the tour, sisters travelling together in France & Italy - they were nice to chat with. After the tour, it was gelato time...
12th June 09 - Day Trip to Monaco...darlingggg!!!
I awoke fairly early this morning (not that I’ve been sleeping right through anyway) in anticipation of my day trip to Monaco. I headed out at about 9:15 in the direction of the Gare Routiere (bus terminal) about a 15 min walk away. When there I hopped instantly on a 100 bus (1 euro) headed out to Menton through Monaco & settled in for the ride. And the ride was incredibly beautiful, weaving along the coastline all the way to Monaco. I recognised some of the winding streets from movies I’d seen in the past.
When I arrived in Monaco, I departed at the Place d’Armes bus stop & walked the stairs up to the palace - quite a long way up. The views along the way were spectacular with sweeping sights over Monte Carlo. I walked through the cathedral which was in the same area as the palace & which is where Princess Grace & Prince Albert are buried. You can sense the honour & sacredness the locals have for this church.
At 11:55 the changing of the guards takes place at the palace, all pomp & ceremony with about 30 guards taking place all up. The entire event took about 15 mins & I was able to grab a couple of photos above the sprawling crowd gathered. I then lined up to tour the palace (8 euros) & was caught amongst several large tourism groups. A working palace, the inside was extravagant & several members of the royal family are still in residence. It’s obvious that Monaco is very proud of its independent state status.
When I arrived in Monaco, I departed at the Place d’Armes bus stop & walked the stairs up to the palace - quite a long way up. The views along the way were spectacular with sweeping sights over Monte Carlo. I walked through the cathedral which was in the same area as the palace & which is where Princess Grace & Prince Albert are buried. You can sense the honour & sacredness the locals have for this church.
At 11:55 the changing of the guards takes place at the palace, all pomp & ceremony with about 30 guards taking place all up. The entire event took about 15 mins & I was able to grab a couple of photos above the sprawling crowd gathered. I then lined up to tour the palace (8 euros) & was caught amongst several large tourism groups. A working palace, the inside was extravagant & several members of the royal family are still in residence. It’s obvious that Monaco is very proud of its independent state status.
After catching a nearby bus, I jumped off at the main port & saw posters & banners already signalling the upcoming start of the Tour de France. A walk around the port was something to behold. The number & size of the boats was mind boggling. I walked by hoping some rich person would say “like to come for a ride?” Needless to say, that didn’t happen.
I continued walking around to a beach a few kilometres away where I saw the closest thing to sand so far (Nice has rocks). The sun was scorching hot & I hadn’t brought my swimmers, so I headed back.
But first a stop at the Monte Carlo Casino. There were Mercedes, Maseratis, Bentleys, Rolls Royces galore dotted around the perimeters of the casino. I went in the entrance of the casino, but you needed to pay 15 euros to get into the actual casino & I thought better of it, so left.
The 100 bus later took me back to Nice after a very satisfying day trip.
I continued walking around to a beach a few kilometres away where I saw the closest thing to sand so far (Nice has rocks). The sun was scorching hot & I hadn’t brought my swimmers, so I headed back.
But first a stop at the Monte Carlo Casino. There were Mercedes, Maseratis, Bentleys, Rolls Royces galore dotted around the perimeters of the casino. I went in the entrance of the casino, but you needed to pay 15 euros to get into the actual casino & I thought better of it, so left.
The 100 bus later took me back to Nice after a very satisfying day trip.
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